We started the day watching the sun rise from an outrigger, from which half-an-hour later we'd see pod after pod of dolphins. Up until we were joined by innumerable other outriggers - I counted 40 - the dolphins were not apparently bothered. But I was. Every time a call came: "That way! Over there!" motors on the traditional jukung fishing boats spluttered into life and roared over the waves for tourists to take photos or even try and touch the beautiful marine beasts. Three types live in these waters: bottlenose, spotted and spinner. Sorry, have no idea which was which.
What a relief to avoid most tourists and visit the ancient still-working Brahma Arama Vihara Buddhist monastery in the village of Banjar. It meant a lot to me, in particular, to spend quiet meditative time in the presence of the Buddha in all his phases - from the anorexic aesthete to the laughing round old man with his several belly layers. Not that I'm the committed practicing follower I was once, but there's a continuity and familiarity about entering a Buddhist temple when travelling overseas that I find comforting.
More comfort was to come. First a stop at a coffee plantation where we sampled the wares accompanied by a plate loaded with some kind of fritter. Fattenly delicious! We did out duty and looked at all the goodies for sale: spices, perfumed soaps and bath condiments, teas and coffees, teacups, saucers and spoons with matching sugar bowl, jug and teapot made from coconut shells. And it was off to the sacred hot springs at Air Panas. A lovely refreshing break standing under warm water spouting and gushing from the mouths of sculpted serpents.
Lunch next, in the middle of which it rained. Just as my travelling companion was hiking in to see Munduk waterfall it poured. I ordered an ice cream and wrote, under cover of the restaurant. When the rain dwindled to a shower, we were off again along winding narrow roads busy with scooter traffic, monkeys and the usual small roadside warungs serving everything from the lunch special to Dutch coconut cookies, to Pura Ulun Danu Bratan. This floating temple from the seventeenth century is Hindu-Buddhist and honours the lake goddess, Dewi Danu, the deity who assures the rice fields are always well-fed with water.
And so we came to Papa Jero's Go Green homestay . . . but I'll leave that treat to another postcard from Bali.